2026 Sport Climbing Power Rankings: Anraku Chases History as Sanders Dominates
Halfway through the 2026 season, Sorato Anraku is on the verge of a historic bouldering sweep, while a volatile women's field sees Annie Sanders and Erin McNeice battling for the top spot.
By Factlen Editorial Team
- Coaches & Competitors
- Analyzes the technical execution, route-reading efficiency, and physiological demands of the climbs.
- Data-Driven Analysts
- Focuses on the historic statistical anomalies of the season, such as Anraku's win streak and scoring margins.
- International Fandom
- Celebrates the national pride, breakout underdog stories, and the sheer entertainment value of the events.
What's not represented
- · Route Setters
- · Sports Psychologists
Why this matters
The 2026 season is marking a generational changing of the guard in competitive climbing. As the sport's technical ceiling rises, these athletes are redefining what is physically possible on the wall ahead of the next Olympic cycle.
Key points
- Japan's Sorato Anraku has won four consecutive boulder golds, a first for any male climber in a single season.
- American Annie Sanders is proving to be a dual-threat, winning gold in both lead and bouldering events.
- Great Britain's Erin McNeice captured a dominant victory in Madrid, topping all four final boulders.
- Indonesian climber Putra Tri Ramadani delivered a massive upset by winning the men's lead qualification in Prague.
The halfway point of the 2026 IFSC World Climbing Series has arrived, and the narrative has decisively shifted from veteran dominance to a youth takeover. Across both the bouldering and lead disciplines, a new generation of athletes is not just winning events, but fundamentally raising the technical ceiling of the sport.[5]
The sport has never seen a men's bouldering streak quite like the one currently unfolding. Nineteen-year-old Japanese phenom Sorato Anraku is rewriting the record books in real-time, dismantling fields with a mix of quiet focus and explosive power.[1][5]
Following a dramatic victory in the Czech Republic on June 6, Anraku became the first male climber in the history of the World Climbing Series to win four consecutive boulder titles in a single season.[1]
His unprecedented run—spanning victories in Keqiao, Bern, Madrid, and now Prague—has put him on course for a mythical clean sweep of the circuit. It is a feat previously achieved only by Slovenian legend Janja Garnbret on the women's side.[1][7]

The Prague final perfectly encapsulated Anraku's current form and resilience. In a low-scoring, highly technical final round, he was forced to edge out South Korea's Lee Do-hyun and France's Mejdi Schalck in a grueling battle of attrition.[1][8]
Schalck made the strongest initial statement by flashing the opening boulder, while Anraku and Lee managed only the zone. However, momentum violently shifted on the third problem when Anraku and Lee both reached the top, leaving Schalck behind.[1]
The contest came down to the final slab boulder. Needing only a clean zone on a style he later admitted was not his favorite, Anraku delivered on his first attempt to seal the gold medal with exactly 55.0 points.[1]
While the men's bouldering circuit has become the Anraku show, the women's power rankings are far more volatile, defined by a thrilling, multi-athlete battle for supremacy.[7]
American teenager Annie Sanders currently holds the title of the circuit's most dangerous all-around threat. She has proven her immense versatility by winning the lead event in Wujiang, China, before transitioning back to bouldering to claim gold in Prague.[4][5]

American teenager Annie Sanders currently holds the title of the circuit's most dangerous all-around threat.
In the Prague final, Sanders effectively secured her victory early. She became the only finalist to top the opening boulder, giving her the crucial margin needed to survive a dramatic finish where she edged out her closest rival by a mere two-tenths of a point.[4]
That rival is Great Britain's Erin McNeice, who is enjoying a spectacular breakout season of her own. The 22-year-old from Chesterfield captured her second World Climbing Series victory in Madrid in late May.[2][6]
McNeice's Madrid performance was a masterclass in composure and endurance; she was the only woman to top all four boulder problems in the final, finishing with a commanding 99.1 points and leaving the crowd in disbelief.[2]
The women's field has also been defined by historic, unexpected upsets this year. In the season opener in Keqiao, France's Zélia Avezou stunned the climbing world by surpassing Olympic champion Janja Garnbret to secure her first career boulder gold.[3]

This unprecedented depth of talent means the women's podium is entirely unpredictable from week to week. Climbers like Australia's Oceania Mackenzie are consistently threatening the top spots, proving that no lead is safe.[3][7]
Meanwhile, the lead climbing season is just getting underway, and early results suggest a similar shakeup is coming to the men's endurance division.[4]
In the Prague lead qualifiers, 20-year-old Indonesian climber Putra Tri Ramadani delivered the shock of the weekend. Ramadani, whose previous best World Cup finish was sixth, delivered two incredibly consistent climbs.[4]

He managed to narrowly edge out Anraku for the top spot in the qualification round. This breakthrough signals Indonesia's rapidly expanding prowess in the sport, proving they are developing elite talent beyond their traditional dominance in speed climbing.[4][8]
How we got here
May 3, 2026
Zélia Avezou stuns Janja Garnbret to win the season opener in Keqiao.
May 29, 2026
Erin McNeice tops all four boulders to win a commanding gold in Madrid.
June 6, 2026
Sorato Anraku secures a historic fourth consecutive boulder gold in Prague.
June 7, 2026
Annie Sanders claims the Prague boulder title, adding to her lead gold from Wujiang.
Viewpoints in depth
The Frontrunners
The athletes currently dictating the pace of the 2026 season.
For climbers like Sorato Anraku and Annie Sanders, the focus has shifted from winning individual events to managing the immense pressure of sustained excellence. Anraku's admission that the final slab in Prague was 'not his style'—yet he still flashed the zone to win—highlights the adaptability required to stay on top. Their camps emphasize recovery, mental conditioning, and avoiding the trap of climbing defensively when holding a lead.
The Chasing Pack
Elite competitors consistently making podiums but hunting for consistent gold.
Athletes like Lee Do-hyun, Mejdi Schalck, and Erin McNeice are climbing at a level that would have dominated previous eras. Their strategy involves forcing the frontrunners into mistakes by flashing early problems and applying scoreboard pressure. Coaches in this camp are heavily focused on route-reading efficiency, knowing that a single extra attempt on a zone hold is currently the difference between gold and bronze.
Route Setters
The architects of the climbs who dictate the physical and mental tests.
The 2026 season has seen a deliberate mix of coordination jumps, raw power crimps, and delicate slab climbing. Setters are actively trying to prevent any single physiological style from dominating the circuit. The low-scoring men's final in Prague was a testament to this philosophy, designed to test the absolute limits of friction and balance rather than just explosive strength, forcing power climbers to adapt on the fly.
What we don't know
- Whether Sorato Anraku can maintain his form to complete a historic clean sweep of the boulder season.
- How the transition from bouldering to the physically grueling lead season will affect the current rankings.
Key terms
- Boulder
- A discipline where climbers tackle short, highly complex routes without ropes over a padded mat, emphasizing explosive power and problem-solving.
- Lead
- A discipline where climbers ascend a tall wall with a rope, clipping into quickdraws as they go, testing endurance and route-reading.
- Zone
- A designated hold midway up a boulder problem that awards partial points if a climber secures it but cannot reach the top.
- Flash
- Successfully completing a boulder problem or lead route on the very first attempt.
Frequently asked
Has any male climber ever swept the boulder season?
No male climber has ever won every boulder event in a single World Climbing Series season. Sorato Anraku is currently on pace to be the first to achieve this feat.
How does scoring work in bouldering finals?
Climbers earn points based on reaching a designated 'zone' hold midway up the route, and the final 'top' hold. Points are deducted for the number of attempts it takes to secure these holds.
Why is Putra Tri Ramadani's performance significant?
Indonesia has historically dominated the speed climbing discipline, but Ramadani's success in lead qualification shows their athletes are becoming elite in technical rope climbing as well.
Sources
[1]XinhuaInternational Fandom
Japan's Anraku takes fourth straight boulder gold in Prague
Read on Xinhua →[2]Olympics.comData-Driven Analysts
World Climbing Series Comunidad de Madrid 2026: Erin McNiece tops Boulder final with gutsy final climb
Read on Olympics.com →[3]IFSC OfficialCoaches & Competitors
AVEZOU WINS FIRST BOULDER GOLD
Read on IFSC Official →[4]Prague World Cup OfficialCoaches & Competitors
Sanders handled the boulder drama and celebrates victory in Prague
Read on Prague World Cup Official →[5]Climbing MagazineData-Driven Analysts
The Youth Takeover: Midseason Review of the 2026 World Climbing Series
Read on Climbing Magazine →[6]UK ClimbingInternational Fandom
Erin McNeice Takes Historic Gold in Madrid
Read on UK Climbing →[7]Gripped MagazineInternational Fandom
The Most Volatile Women's Boulder Season in History
Read on Gripped Magazine →[8]PlanetMountainInternational Fandom
Prague World Cup 2026: Anraku and Sanders win Boulder
Read on PlanetMountain →
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